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Jack aus Maine möchte mit seiner 66er C2 Europa bereisen - Tipps?
Gary Ramadei is putting the final touches on the rear end he is building for me. He discovered excess run out in the posi unit. Here are his comments and process to reduce run out to his specs.

Hi Jack,
So as I mentioned yesterday there was a wide range of lash in the setup. I wanted to see if it was in the gears or the posi case. I removed the ring gear from the posi and checked the bare posi in the housing. I checked a few places; the posi flange where the RG mounts, the case OD where the RG ID is press fit, and the flange OD. I found the case OD was good with only 001" or less runout in it but the flange had 006" runout and the flange OD had 008". The flange OD doesn't matter but the case OD & face do. I set the posi up in the lathe using a small 4 jaw chuck to dial in case OD as my reference. I dialed the case OD to less then 001" and rechecked the flange run out in the lathe and it was out 006". I faced the flange 005 in small passes and turned the flange OD. In the lathe they were both 0 but I knew it would open up in the housing because it will be referenced off the case bearings.

"I found the caps were loose on the bearing races and set them up to 001" gap. Then I installed the bare case and found the flange runout 002 which is good. The case OD is still 001 and the Flange OD is under 001". I was able to keep the case bearings installed without issue. The lash is now within 002-003 compared to 006 before. I couldn't do a pattern test because I have to let the Loctite setup on the RG bolts again. Next up I will check the pattern to see how it looks. I did radius the edges of the teeth on the RG, this is an old blueprinting trick.

I will see how the pattern looks on Monday."


This video is an example of what he did to my unit. Just click on it

[url="https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=3rDWhaGtr3E"]1963 Chevrolet Biscayne Positraction Differential Overhaul - Part 3.1 - Repaired - YouTube[/url]


Pictures

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On milling machine

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Caps

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Here are more photos of the build of my rear end by Gary Ramadie and his comments on Pattern.

Hi Jack
Here is the pattern. Now what you will see is the pattern is center to toe, which is how these gears typically set up, unlike "textbook" patterns which are perfectly center on the tooth. What I go by is the pattern being equal in length and somewhat uniform. Attached you will see the Drive & Coast sides of the teeth plus the lapping pattern that is on the gear out of the box- which I call "new pattern". Some gears do not have this but US Gear always does and I like to reference it since it may show how the gear set was lapped. In this case you can see the pattern is center to toe as well only a little high. Setting up this gear set it followed "suit" and the Coast side is center to toe. You will se in my pictures the lengths are equal. Now even though these are final lapped they are never uniform from one tooth to the next. Some may show a full pattern, the next one may be center to toe. I have seen them with one tooth tapering high and the next tapering low. This is where a lot of guys get caught, it is a time consuming process because each pattern change requires break down, cleaning, reshimming, reassembly, then testing. Many cycles to dial them in. Different ratios setup differently but it call comes down to how they were machined and lapped to start. Some new patterns are center on the coast and center to toe on the drive. The rotation is smooth with no binding or noise using a handwheel setup.

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Almost done, more comments from Gary.

Hi Jack
Here I fit the new ( rebuilt) Lone Star standard axles. With a common built posi with the springs and plates you would just pop these in with the snap ring and that's it. I have seen rebuilt diff's with axle endplay over .100"!
The tuned posi requires the axles to be fit most of the time, the last diff I did they fit perfect but just about all tuned posi's will have -0- endplay or you might not even get the snap ring on. So I set them up in the surface grinder and grind off 005-010" from the hardened face and set the end play to 005-008". This varies because the spiders are not a fine machined gear so they might be a little different through 360*.

Going back to the posi tuning, this is important to get right otherwise you will issue with the axle gap in addition to the posi not working correctly.

So here it is, all I have to do is fit the cover, shoot a touch coat of paint and crate it up for you. Tomorrow I am off so I will be at it on Friday and have it on the dock for pick up on Monday, you will have it on Tuesday.

Any questions?

Thanks
Gary

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[Bild: Finished_zpsrqv6shko.jpg]
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Hey Jack,
I installed the cover and shot a touch up coat of paint on tonight. Tomorrow I'll come in and crate it up to ship on Monday FedEx.

I will include 2 bottles of posi additive. You will have to pick up 2 bottles of Lucas 85-140 gear oil and you can reuse your old fill plug which you should have there or you can use the new one I installed. Seal the plug with some tape or thread sealant.

You will have to break in the new gears too, I will have paperwork in with the diff to cover the procedure. This is important, you don't want to burn up the new gears.

You should have it on Tuesday.

Thanks Jack, this was an interesting build to say the least.

Gary

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The rear end build is over. I just recieved the box and now I have to start thinking about the instalation of the drive train.

But that can wait for another day.

Here it is , and thanks to Gary Ramadie for creating a work of Art.

[Bild: The%20Rear%20Comes%20Home_zpsoccnulg8.jpg]

Just waiting for the rest of the drive train

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Here they are , waiting for me to crawl under the car and install

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Well I celebrated Memorial Day Weekend with a little car work. I now have all the parts ready for installation .

[Bild: Ready%20to%20go_zps1cd0p0ae.jpg]

[Bild: This%20way_zpsvrosfmks.jpg]


The first thing I have to ask is , Why did I think I could do this ?

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Next I had to get the transmission back in . Replaced the throw-out bearing, rear bearing and seal. Never easy...I finally resorted to the push the tail over the cross member, roll the tranny on to my chest, and do a push up with it . It went up and in. No problems but a lot of back and blue marks on my arms and body.

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Drive shaft hooked up with new slip yoke

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Using a jack, I lifted up the rear with cross member and bolted it to frame

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Next the haft shafts...using jacks to lift the TA up to level to install HS

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[Bild: Looking%20good_zpsuj3x9cam.jpg]

Next up the strut rods and spring later in the week, waiting for parts

[Bild: Taking%20care%20of%20business_zps6uuoipsq.jpg]
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Jack, you are my hero!

having a heavy tranny on your chest and lifting it up yourself. Respect!
I Think, when you are back on the road, you will be really proud Yeeah!

Thank you so much for sharing this prject and the diff-tuning!

Respekt
Liebe Grüße von Markstingray
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My rear End is in the seat once again......The first ride of 2015.
After 6 months of restoration , the car held together for a 20 minute ride to start the break in of the newly rebuilt rear end, transmission and suspension..
I did the removal and installation with the car on jack stands.
I do not recommend this method , but like many of us, I had no choice..,,,,,,,.


I have to go now....time for another 20 minute ride....

If you click on the link you will see the video of my first ride, looks better on computer then Iphone , speakers for sound


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pUH1jXM_...Ow&index=1
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QUOTE=66BlkBB;1590018414]Jack,

Hi, I thought you would like to look at a few big blocks that a few friends in the Dakotas have. Dan, Maroon, Pete , Yellow, and Steve , Black big blocks. I had lunch with them as I crossed the Dakotas on my 48 State Tour.

Steve asking me a question on my linkage post.

"Are you planning any more US excursions? Dan, Pete and I still own the BB's. Dan just got his repainted and setup with a new rear spring, steering box, etc. I haven't seen it yet but will try to look at it when I am in Moorhead again. Take care."

Steve[/QUOTE]


Hi Steve,

I prefer the GM rods, I was not sure if I could use them, or if in fact they are the ones that have worn out.

I am planing to go to Carlisle this year. I have never been to it , more info later as I am finishing up the rear end and suspension on the car.

Thanks again for the great lunch....

Some pictures of my visit on the 48 State Tour

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Back on the road

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The Car is Packed and Carlisle awaits ! I am planning to attend Corvettes at Carlisle this August 27-30, 2015. I plan to be on the road for about 14 days. ( August 14th to Sept 1) [/B .

Even though I have owned my car for 45 years, I have never been to Carlisle. I hope to have a mini reunion with many of my hosts from the 48 State Tour. Let me know if you are going !

]If you have owned your corvette for 30 or more years, I would like to stop by and add you to my research on long time Corvette Owners.

The map shows the general route (not roads yet) I am taking, PM me with your town and I will put it on the map. Once the map has enough dots on it.

I will plan the actual route. More information to come as I add details and dates of travel. I used this method to travel to all 48 states, and Europe to document these cars and owners. I will be posting to 9 US and European Corvette Forums as well as Facebook. Here are is a link to my web page with details . of my trips to Europe and NCRS National Convention.

http://www.corvettevagabond.com

[B]Map link- Just click on it. PM with your town and I will put your town on the map . The route shown is just a general direction. Actual roads traveled later. ( I will not post your address , just town)

https://www.google.com/maps/d/edit?hl=en...QFfkdm4LN8


[Bild: Packingcarfortrip006.jpg]
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